I passed through Paris on either side of walking the Camino.

Before walking, I spent a couple of days in Paris. I stayed just north of the Seine, in a neighborhood filled with designer storefronts and quiet streets. I bought Le Labo Santal 33, visited Le Bon Marché, and returned to familiar places: Tuileries Garden, Luxembourg Gardens, and Notre-Dame Cathedral.

From there, I took a high-speed train to Bayonne and then a local train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the starting point of the Camino Frances. Saint-Jean felt immediately familiar in a way I did not expect. It reminded me of my grandmother’s home in northern New Mexico. It was the smell of the air, the mountains, the quiet. I stayed with an older couple who had retired there from Paris. They were warm and generous, inviting me to dinner the night before I began walking. They served stewed rhubarb for dessert, the same dish my grandmother used to make. It was an unexpected moment of connection, and I felt her presence.

The next morning, I began the walk to Roncesvalles. The climb out of Saint-Jean was steep and relentless. I had to stop every 20–30 feet to catch my breath, completely out of shape after a demanding year in my MBA program. But I made it over the mountain and into Spain.

After completing the Camino, I flew to Bordeaux. I spent two full days there, exploring the city and surrounding vineyards. I visited the wine museum, spent time in cafés and squares, and took a day trip to nearby vineyards. My Airbnb host had to travel unexpectedly and left me with her cat, which did not go well. It bit me repeatedly every time it saw me, so I had to run from the front door to my bedroom and shut the door. The cat also climbed all over my food on the counter when I made dinner so I took to gathering all of the items from the fridge and retreating to my room to make and eat dinner and only leaving to put everything away.

I returned to Paris by high speed train, picked up my bag from the architecture firm, and spent one final night overlooking the Eiffel Tower before flying home. I may be the only person who has ever walked over 600 miles in 49 days and gained weight.